“Huene stands alone. There would be no Fashion Photography as we know it without him” – Richard Avedon
George Hoyningen-Huene, often known simply as Huene, was one of the most important practitioners of his time, a master and visionary who helped reshape the landscape of fashion photography.
Born in St. Petersburg, in 1900, Huene and his family fled the country during the Russian revolution, and he eventually settled in Paris in the early 1920s. At the time, the city was a hub of creativity, and Huene honed his craft amongst the luminaries of art, fashion, design, film, and high society many of whom became his close friends and in some cases, collaborators (including the surrealist master, Man Ray).
Infused with elements of modernism, neoclassicism, and surrealism, his captivating portraits, and meticulously-arranged studio compositions garnered widespread recognition and acclaim, and from the mid-20s onwards he served as one of the leading photographers for Vogue and Vanity Fair, and later, after relocating to New York City, Harper’s Bazaar.
Over the years, he cast his graceful and perceptive gaze over exclusive couture creations by the likes of Balenciaga and Chanel and photographed some of the most notable figures of the period, including Hollywood stars, Marlene Dietrich, Rita Hayworth, Katharine Hepburn, and Ava Gardner.
Outside of his studio, he photographed extensively during his travels, resulting in the publication of five books: African Mirage, the Record of a Journey; Hellas (1943); Egypt (1943); Mexican Heritage (1946); and Baalbek/Palmyra (1946).
Upon his death from a stroke in 1968, he bequeathed his life’s work to his close friend and mentee, Horst P. Horst, thus ensuring his archive would be carefully maintained. Following Horst’s death in 1999, his adopted son became the custodian, and some two decades later, art collectors Tommy and Åsa Rönngren, have taken on the task of cataloging and digitizing the diverse contents of the archive and developing projects in order “to share George Hoyningen-Huene’s beautiful photographs with new audiences around the world”.
In 2022, London gallery Atlas became the exclusive UK representatives of his estate. To celebrate, they presented an exhibition featuring rarely seen archive prints, exquisite large platinum palladium prints made under Horst’s instruction, and, for the first time in the UK, large-scale limited-edition prints from the Estate Archives launched in 2020.
This dedication to preserving and celebrating his legacy allows new generations to share in his work and discover the artistry of a truly remarkable photographer — or, as Richard Avedon put it, “a genius, the master of us all.”
All images © The George Hoyningen-Huene Estate Archives, courtesy of Atlas Gallery