The George Hoyningen-Huene Archives

Exhibition Allure: Platinum Prints by George Hoyningen-Huene

© The George Hoyningen-Huene Archives

London gallery Atlas presents the first solo exhibition of George Hoyningen-Huene’s photographs in the UK for more than four decades.


─── by Josh Bright, April 29, 2022

Described by Richard Avedon as, “a genius, the master of us all”, Hoyningen-Huene (often known simply as Huene) was one of the most important practitioners of his time, whose influence on fashion photography was both seismic and enduring.

Fashion, portrait photography by George Hoyningen-Huene, woman in evening dress. Allure: Platinum Prints by George Hoyningen-Huene,
Toto Koopman, Evening dress by Augustabernard, 1933


Born in St. Petersburg, in 1900, Huene and his family fled the country during the Russian revolution, and he eventually settled in Paris in the early 1920s. At the time, the city was a hub of creativity, and Huene honed his craft amongst the luminaries of art, fashion, design, film, and high society many of whom became his close friends and in some cases, collaborators (including the surrealist master, Man Ray).

Fashion, portrait photography by George Hoyningen-Huene, Agneta Fischer Modelling Evening Gloves, 1931
Agneta Fischer Modelling Evening Gloves, 1931
Fashion portrait photography by George Hoyningen-Huene, Horst and Lee Miller in swimwear by Izod, 1930
Divers, Swimwear by Izod, Horst and Lee Miller, 1930


Infused with elements of modernism, neoclassicism, and surrealism, his captivating portraits, and meticulously-arranged studio compositions garnered widespread recognition and acclaim, and from the mid-20s onwards he served as one of the leading photographers for Vogue and Vanity Fair, and later, after relocating to New York City, Harper’s Bazaar.

Fashion photography by George Hoyningen-Huene
Horst Torso, Paris, 1931


Over the years, he cast his graceful and perceptive gaze over exclusive couture creations by the likes of Balenciaga and Chanel and photographed some of the most notable figures of the period, including Hollywood stars, Marlene Dietrich, Rita Hayworth, Katharine Hepburn, and Ava Gardner.

Outside of his studio, he photographed extensively during his travels, resulting in the publication of five books: African Mirage, the Record of a Journey; Hellas (1943); Egypt (1943); Mexican Heritage (1946); and Baalbek/Palmyra (1946).

George Hoyningen-Huene, nude man, 1937
Sudanese Nude, 1937
Fashion portrait photography by George Hoyningen-Huene, model in Swimwear by Patou, 1928
Miss Alicia, Swimwear by Patou, 1928


Upon his death from a stroke in 1968, he bequeathed his life’s work to his close friend and mentee, Horst P. Horst, thus ensuring his archive would be carefully maintained. Following Horst’s death in 1999, his adopted son became the custodian, and some two decades later, art collectors Tommy and Åsa Rönngren, have taken on the task of cataloging and digitizing the diverse contents of the archive and developing projects in order “to share George Hoyningen-Huene’s beautiful photographs with new audiences around the world”.

Fashion portrait photography by George Hoyningen-Huene. Virginia Kent & Peggy Leaf, Paris, Eiffel Tower, 1934
Virginia Kent & Peggy Leaf, informal daywear by Lelong, 1934


To celebrate and inaugurate their exclusive UK representation of his estate, Atlas presents their first exhibition of Hoyningen-Huene’s work. It comprises rarely seen prints from the archives (a number of which are being publicly exhibited for the first time) alongside exquisite large platinum palladium prints, made under Horst’s instruction, and, for the first time ever in the UK, several large-scale platinum palladium prints from a limited-edition series launched by the Estate Archives in 2020.

In addition to the exhibition, Atlas will present a rare group of prints at this year’s editions of PHOTO LONDON and The Photography Show presented by AIPAD in New York.

 

Allure: Platinum Prints by George Hoyningen-Huene is on view May 5 – June 18, at Atlas Gallery, London

All images © The George Hoyningen-Huene Estate Archives, courtesy of Atlas Gallery